I. Preparation of the skin and beard hair
Before shaving, the skin and beard hair must be carefully prepared. This protects both the skin and the razor. The best way to do this is to shave after a hot shower or by applying a hot compress to your face for a few minutes. Then, wet your skin with warm water. If desired, you can also apply shaving oil before rinsing. Next, apply a thick lather, whipped up with a brush. The lather should be left on for at least two minutes.
II. Preparing the knife
While the shaving soap softens the beard hair, there is sufficient time to strop the razor on a hanging or strop, as described in the article "Care & Leathering".
III. Shaving with the grain
Now it may be necessary to apply more lather with a freshly moistened brush. The lather must be kept moist throughout the entire shave. The handle of the razor is folded back so that the blade is exposed and forms approximately a right angle with the handle. The handle is held between the middle and ring fingers, pointing away from the back of the hand. Now, with gentle pressure, the blade is moved across the skin in the direction of hair growth. The angle should be between 20° and 45° and is a matter of feel and experience. Beginners should first shave the simpler areas of the cheeks, and then the rest of the face using their previously established shaving method. With increasing practice and skill, shaving with a straight razor is gradually extended to other areas of the face. CAUTION! The elbow should be positioned far away and not the focus of attention. If you bump this part of your body against something, you will often get a painful cut.
IV. Shaving against the grain
After shaving with the grain, you can shave again against the grain for a closer and therefore more thorough shave, depending on your preference and skin tolerance. For this, the skin must be moistened and soaped again.
V. Care of skin and knife
After shaving, rinse your skin with cold, clear water. This closes the pores and any minor cuts. Dry and oil the razor as described in the "Care & Leathering" section. Depending on your preference, you can then apply aftershave or face cream.
A more detailed description can also be seen in our YouTube video.